This season at London Fashion Week there was a depth and warmth to the Autumn/Winter 13 collections. Tones were earthy; deep reds,plums and mulberry, chocolate brown and midnight river blue. But there was also a lot of monochrome from Spring/Summer continuing into the next season. Lug von Siga and Mary Katrantzou’s main collection featured the black and white colour themes whilst Mulberry had a heavy presence of black in the collection (including poodles!).
There were strong female silhouettes behind structured tailoring, such as DAKS and Zoe Jordan. But there was also flowy at Issa.
For me the collections were very wearable. Nothing too crazy or too brash and embellished. To make an impact for Autumn/Winter it is all about colour; burnt orange was THE colour of the season – seen in practically every show. As well as canary yellow and magenta.
Two key features that were seen through many designers shows were polo necks, layered under dresses and short sleeve tops. Go with a tall polo neck with long sleeves in contrasting colours. Whilst interestingly the rise of the elbow length leather glove was seen at Mulberry and Lug Von Siga.
PPQ gave us a trip on a hazy summers evening; maybe somewhere like Milan to the casino or a stylish hotel bar. Evening dresses in luxurious velvet, again minimal embellishment but more of a focus on colour to have that “wow factor”. Erdem kept to his floral prints but in an evening context with sequins and sparkles; layered organza over print and a fair bit of faux fur to complete the look.
Autumn/Winter felt relaxed but glamorous. Wearable and desirable.
By Rachel Montague-Ebbs (LadyMPresents)
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